(tutorial)
i just did a cool thing that i think would be useful if you’re like me and sometimes have a hard time picking colours / a colour scheme for an image
basically i just took a brush with moderate spacing, turned on colour dynamics and set all the hue/sat/brightness to a low (~10%-30%) jitter, picked a base colour, and drew a line down the side of the canvas
it’s sort of like when some people save colour swatches so they can keep their shading consistent, but more for playing around with different tones and lighting on a single surface. it’ll probably be pretty good for skin which is very multi-tonal by nature.
a lot of colours came out that i probably wouldn’t have picked manually, but they still looked pretty cool. and it saves a lot of time because now i have a broad range of colours without having to browse through my pantone swatches or open up the colour picker.
(via snazzy-lemon)
Click the image to go to the fullsize! Easier to read.
A big ol’ tip on drawing cities from street-level. The drawings are pretty crude, (I did them very fast,) but I think they get the point across :) I’m sure some streets like in the first example actually exist in the world, but why would you choose to draw something so boringly bland?
Hope it helps you out!
weh I have so much to learn on in the “drawing cities” front. I always try to push myself to do better, but I can never quite stage my sidewalks right. I blame it on growing up in a town with no sidewalks or buildings higher than two stories.
I just want to add backgrounds in general have stuff LOTS OF STUFF. I love love love well done backgrounds
Man, some day I hope to draw a city street as well as the first picture.
reference
(via artist-refs)
I’m sure you recognize a few of these exercises because I do them whenever I have spare time. I own the Heads and Hands book because I ride the trolley to and fro work so it gives me some idle time. The different characteristics of faces REALLY helped me break away from same-facing and appreciate how people are so differently built up into shapes.
Here’s a link to the books here- http://alexhays.com/loomis/
The Loomis books are public domain I use this link if I just want to quickly find a page instead of scrolling through the PDF’s. WARNING. SITE HAS A STATUE OF DAVID AS BACKGROUND. ENJOY?? BUT NSFW. I usually just right click + open new tab when I find a good page so I’m not constantly being distracted on what David has to offer.- http://fineart.sk/photo-references/andrew-loomis-anatomy-books
When sketch on the computer I usually open a page up and pin up the page with deskpins. A program I linked awhile ago that lets you pin up windows as top most.
Have fun! I’m going to make a tutorial this weekend on how I treat my lines and possibly a gif animation of me doing the back view to the muscle build ups I’m doing. I might try to livestream it, not sure yet. If I do I might just open mic it so people can ask me questions. If not, expect a ton of videogame music. It helps me feel like I’m grinding to lvl up. Yeah! Kind of dorky!
Okay! Finally answering this, because I wanted to talk in-depth and needed some time to get my thoughts together! Hold on to your butts, because this is gonna stretch your dash worse than a traffic cone up a porn star’s vagina. PRESENTING:
Doctored, Strange Colors
or
How I Learned To Stop Worrying And Be The Bomb
This isn’t meant to be a coloring tutorial. This isn’t going to teach you color theory. This is simply meant to be an explanation of my techniques and an attempt to explain how I think about things, and it’s probably going to be really, really long. Also, I’d like to add in a disclaimer: my old habits aren’t bad things on their own. Everything I used has a place! The issue is that I stopped using the materials at my disposal as tools, and started using them as crutches and excuses. Style is something that should go over your knowledge and skill of form, not something to disguise or excuse construction mistakes. Think of it like the icing on top of a cake - if the cake was poorly baked, no amount of icing will really save it. In terms of color, instead of actually THINKING, I relied on my icing for far too long.
To start with anon, let me explain how I used to do my coloring, with the aid of my beautiful assistant, Ms. Feferi Peixes With Short Fluffy Hair:
What a cutie! I’m going to be using this sketch to explain most everything here. So, my old technique:
1: Set the sketch to multiply, color in the entire area with a single color. I went ahead and colored in the horns because for whatever reason I make horns these dayglo fluorescent things that never really have shadows.
2: Toss down where your light is on the same layer. Use a soft brush at around ~60-70 opacity. I never use multiple layers in this, it’s just blending and shaping on the same one - think of it like sculpting a three-dimensional figure on a two-dimensional plane.
3. Using the eyedropper tool, use the small gradients of color between your lightsource and base shadow to figure out what your midtones will be. I create my lines this way, by simply leaving the shadow color behind and sculpting around until I get the shapes I want.
4. Slap down some hilights and detail and call it a day. Pop a brewski or something.
And hey, it looks pretty good! It’s pretty passable as long as you keep it on a white background, because using the technique only in this method will cause some problems, mainly:
A. It leaves no room for color depth, midtones, reflected light, or anything else and
B. When using this technique for an entire scene (in which you simply bucketfill an area with your shadow color then go to town) the end results are REALLY DULL.
So, this served as a quandary for me. The following is some ideas and methods that I used to change how I see and use color.
LIMIT YOURSELF.
You’re not going to break out of using nothing but dull colors if you don’t use brighter tones. That doesn’t mean that there’s something wrong with neutral colors, or that you can never use darks! Lord, no. This is simply for the purpose of changing how you think and what colors you consider in your mental palette. It’s an exercise, not a rule. Simply put, the more often you work with colors outside of your comfort range, the more likely it is that your comfort range with grow.
Use the tools available to you.
There are a LOT of websites out there about color, and color design. Two of my favorites are Color Scheme Designer and Kuler. Again, these are not crutches, and they are not go-to places to generate palettes. What they are, are ways to gather ideas and inspiration. CSD is a good place to look for what colors might go well with a shade you’re already using, while Kuler has beautiful palettes already made up for you to study.
Do color studies, but don’t copy.
Go grab the work of an artist, photographer, or whatever that you really love in terms of color. For this, I’m going to use one of my favorites, Mary Blair:
Grab your eyedropper tool, but wait! We’re not going to be using these colors. We’re going to be looking at the colors used to understand the relationship between them, so we can learn and understand. Let’s look at the purple/blue bird, the orange/black bird, and the white tree.
Look at that! The white and black aren’t white and black at all. The white’s actually a very pale yellow, while the black is a very dark brown. Even in the blue bird, the hue shifts between the body and the tail. When you do this, you’re not looking for simple shades. You’re looking to understand relationships. Generally speaking, pure black/white/grey doesn’t look too good, but can work in the right environment. Shifting the hue of a color when picking a darker shade will often add interest, rather than simply picking a darker shade of the same hue. Which brings me to—
Vary your hues.
I picked four random colors. The top row is using the same hue and saturation, with varying only the shade to create different tones. On the bottom row, I allow myself to change the hue and saturation to get a much different palette - either going in a warmer or cooler direction, depending on what I’m interested in making my palette. I also picked a hilight color in the opposite direction. This is a fine way to pick colors in a vacuum and is a good starting point to start picking your colors, but again, doesn’t allow for picking reflected light/color and the like. That depends on what colors you’re using together.
Use your colors to express form.
More to do with shading than anything, but color is a part of shading as well. Here, let’s use Fef as a model again, but this time something from my private low-effort doodle folder where everyone is apparently a pinup model (coming to an AU near younot really):
On the left, the sketch set to multiply, or where the lines would probably go otherwise. On the right, the coloring on its own. You can still make out what’s going on, as well as the volume of her shapes looking at the colors. That’s a good thing. Even without lines, or without digital painting - you should still give an illusion of depth and presence.
Don’t be afraid.
Go ahead. Say fuck it. Boldness doesn’t come on its own. Mess around with your colors. Throw down everything until something sticks. Play around until something looks good. Give a cyclops chick with dark grey hair a lime green shine.
TL;DR:
Seek to understand. If there’s anything I preach on this blog, I think it’s to attempt to understand before anything else. Don’t simply look at colors, look at how they work. Look at how they relate to one another. Whether you’re using neutrals, darks, brights, or pastels, understanding and studying will help you more than you know.
You’ve made it to the end!! Good luck in your future endeavors, and I hope that I was able to properly convey the methods I used while improving myself.
photoset 2 of 2: Looking - a tutorial on using photo references
(Source: senshistock.deviantart.com)
So many people have asked me for character design tips over the past couple of years. Here’s a whole list of rules I keep in mind with my own character designs.
In no specific order:
- Simple is good. Streamline your design to its essence. The more shit you add on your character the more you make it about what they are wearing, and not who they are.
- Popular ideas of beauty are limiting. There are only so many ways to make a character conventionally beautiful before you start noticing they all have the same face (i.e. “Six Faces Syndrome”). What most people consider “ugly” or undesirable is actually features that make your character unqiue. Who would you likely remember more: A perfect-faced model or that model’s twin with buckteeth?
- Understand typical archetype designs and visual stereotypes to use them effectively. What are characteristics found in a “hero” character? In a “villain” character? In a “child” character? What can you do to mix them around, or play it straight?
- Don’t draw the lines of the character, rather: draw the character in the lines. In other words: if someone told you to draw a horse, don’t just draw a plain old horse—draw the personality in the horse. A Royal Noble Horse has a much different character from an Old Sickly Stubborn Horse, for example. There’s a difference between Hark! A Vagrant!’s Fat Pony and Tangled’s Maximus, for another example.
- Make your characters relatable. Making a character as wildly unique as possible (a pink-purple-blue haired goth wearing nothing but Hot Topic gear, for instance) actually is one of the most alienating thing you can do for your audience. It’s trying too hard to make your character a special snowflake. Limit this extreme to very specific characters and roles, be calculating and precise about going crazy. It will be more effective.
- In addition, find what makes a person special through the boring features. Not everyone has crazy tri-colored hair, but there are a lot of people who have short brown hair. Can you draw five different characters with short brown hair and make them all unique? Try it out.
- Silhouettes are important. Are you varying body mass? Are you utilizing basic shapes? We are able to recognize people and objects just from their shadow, and we do it so often we don’t even notice we do it! If all your characters have the same “shadow,” challenge yourself to mix it up more.
- If you drew your characters naked and bald, could you tell them apart?
- Be consistent in the ‘tone’ of your design style.
- All these rules can be broken according to how calculated your irony is for your story. But you need to know what to do right before intentionally doing it wrong.
photoset 1 of 2: Looking - a tutorial on using photo references
(Source: senshistock.deviantart.com)
So, other glaring anatomy problems aside… how do muscles in the torso work?
Ah, a very good question. This isn’t really yaoi but I’ll do it anyway since it’s such a good question. to be frank I’m not really an expert on the muscles specifically since I tend to focus more on the overall shape than interior detail things (plus I like drawing skinny guys so the my treatment of muscle is usually really subtle) so I’ll just show how I organize the male torso:
I break it into groups. Green is the pectorals, which sit on top of the ribcage (in red), which transitions into the abdominals (blue) aaaand yellow is kinda just “everything else”. oh and the blue dots are there to point out a subcutaneous landmark (meaning “below the skin”, a place where the bone comes very close to the surface that is good to help navigate the body) of the Iliac crest on the pelvis, just because I love that landmark it’s so useful. I googled “male torso” and did the same to a sculpture I found so you can, like, see it in action or something
Ok stuff:
it’s IMPORTANT to realize that the pectorals are on top of the ribcage. see on the line drawing on the left, the area around the left armpit, see how everything layers. there’s an overlapping indicated where the ribcage swells forward from underneath the thickness of the pectoral. emphasizing this line really pushes the skinniness of the body, though it is still good to put it there on guys who work out more (it keeps a rounder, bigger, pec from looking like a boob)
next, keep in mind that the torso has thickness as well as width:
it varies from person to person but I find it generally ideal to have the bellybutton here:
Also something I see a LOT in yaoi manga is people outlining all these muscles with solid lines; no :( Well I guess it’s kind of unavoidable if you’ve only got black and white to work with, so if you need to put lines on the interior, make sure they 1) don’t outline things and instead are placeholders for where a shadow would be, and 2) aren’t drawn with the same line quality/thickness as the outlines of the body. the point is to make soft contours look like soft contours with a softer line, right?
Honestly I’d avoid putting any lines to indicate abs altogether unless I was drawing the Hulk or something, but I wanted to see if I could do it in an acceptable way so I drew this. it looks fine I think. if it’s in a black and white line drawing sure, but if I were doing full color and shading on it then I would never leave those lines in, and instead let my rendering tell the viewer that there are abs there. I attempted to do that to the submitted drawing (it’s low res so it didn’t work out as well as it could have, but you can get the idea)
I tried my best :|;;;
anyway since the torso and shoulders are connected I have this post as suggested reading
I tried doing this in some figure study doodling and HOLY SHIT thank you, none of the framework techniques were working with me because they were sticks or expecting you to know how to pull off depth and this is SUPER HELPFUL for placing parts of the torso in proportion and drawing decent muscles
(so is the arm one, seriously)
this is so helpful you don’t even know omg
Reblogging because MAN this is awesome community feedback and totes helpful.
(via artist-refs)
Alyssa wanted some tips for drawing manly men so here’s this thing. It’s by no means an all-encompassing guide. Just a quick reference or starting point for people not used to drawing burly dudes.
I would have talked more about actual anatomy, but I honestly don’t think I have the street cred to do that yet. If it seems like there’s info missing, that’s probably why.
(via artist-refs)
鎖のめんどくさくない描き方
fuck where was this tutorial i’ve needed it my whole life omg
FUQ U CHAINSSSS
See also: Page 2 (Same artist)
part of a huge Georgetown Atelier tutorial on color temperature. This bit’s on the block-in.
pictures 1+2
It is a natural tendency to gravitate towards the details at the expense of the broad design; to jump into rendering the eyelashes and fingernails without building the ‘archtecture’ of the figure. Take a moment to view the Bargue drawing below. […] Take notice of how the block-in on the left is a simplified or ‘distilled’ version of the further developed image on the right. The block-in on the left not only establishes the proportions and anatomical structure, but also links together the shapes and forms in a designed manner. The illustration below highlights some of these design themes.
picture 3
Think of your drawing or painting not in photographic terms (as a snapshot) but as a construction of a temple where the block-in functions as the foundation and scaffolding. After learning to harness these capabilities working from a single figure, the artist can expand this tool set to organize more complex multi-figure compositions. Caravaggios ‘Entombment’ is a good example of this:
picture 4
For example, in the drawing above the armature contains the following information: Tilt of the ribcage and pelvis, center axis of the figure, gestural leaning back, proportional relationships between the torso, legs, head and arms, and vertical alignments such as the foot of the weight bearing leg with the pelvis, torso and head. The small ‘points’ on the drawing are ‘Anatomical Landmarks’ that were useful in establishing those relationships described above. […] When working on the early stages of a block-in, take care to not underestimate aspects responsible for the movement or gesture of the pose, such as the tilt of the pelvis vs. ribcage. It’s better to lean on the side of too much gesture then not enough, as drawings have a tendency to ‘stiffen’ as they progress.
picture 5
In developing the torso I squinted to to see the basic Shadow Shapes as both a graphic pattern as well as an anatomical/structural statement. This is something that’s useful to do throughout the entire drawing.
picture 6
First aspect of this pose that I ‘froze’, the image on the right shows the finished drawing
I’m completely lost, but it looks interesting ._.
A while back I asked the so very talented Skoptsy for advice on drawing anatomy in perspective. She responded with this (and a short explanation that I lost DX)
(via artist-refs)

















